苏州服装设计培训学校

“I always wore my father’s things,” says Margherita Cardelli, half of the duo behind a new Italian line, Giuliva Heritage Collection.

“我以前经常穿我父亲的衣服，”Margherita Cardelli说道。她是意大利品牌线Giuliva Heritage Collection的双人设计师之一。

When she met the lawyer and designer Gerardo Cavaliere, now her partner in business and life, the habit continued. “I started to steal from his wardrobe.”

当她与自己如今的生意伙伴兼伴侣Gerardo Cavaliere（他是一位律师、设计师）相遇时，这种习惯得以延续下来。“我开始从他的衣橱里偷衣服穿了。”

Cardelli, who consults on communications for brands like Alberta Ferretti and Moschino, saw an opportunity to create something new for women: an edited collection of outerwear based on quintessential men’s cuts.

Cardelli为Alberta Ferretti、Moschino等品牌提供通信咨询服务。她在工作期间，发现了一个为女性创造一些新鲜东西的机会：根据男装的精华剪裁，为女性设计一系列外套。

The brand launched earlier this year with just six pieces, including a wool trench, a velvet dinner jacket and a “super ’90s,” double-breasted cashmere camel overcoat. The focus, says Cardelli, is on “very classic coats you should have in your wardrobe.”

该品牌诞生于今年年初，仅推出了六款服装。其中包括一件羊毛trench风衣、一件天鹅绒无尾礼服、一件90年代风格的双排纽扣羊绒混驼毛外套。Cardelli表示，该系列服装的重点在于它们属于“衣橱必备的经典外套。”

Coats were a natural place to start for Cardelli, who grew up in Italy’s Abruzzo region. The rugged, alpine landscape — which she compares to the lowlands of Idaho or Montana — never gets too warm, and “even in summer,” Cardelli says, “you always need something to cover your shoulders.”

对Cardelli而言，从外套起步似乎是一件自然而然的事情。她在意大利的崎岖山区Abruzzo区长大。她将那里比作美国爱达荷州或蒙大拿州的低地，温度永远都不会太高，“即使是在夏天，”Cardelli说道，“肩上也总得搭一件外套。

Indeed, it was a trip to Campo Imperatore, an expansive mountain grassland in Abruzzo’s L’Aquila Province, that helped the couple crystallize the idea for Giuliva Heritage.

”事实上，正是在Abruzzo区的一场旅游让这对夫妇下定决心推出Giuliva Heritage。当时，他们正前往位于Abruzzo区L’Aquila Province的广阔草原Campo Imperatore旅游，

“The excitement about this place, for both of us, inspired our collection.”

“那里令我们两人都感到很兴奋，给了我这个系列的灵感。”

After positive reception, Cardelli and Cavaliere have grown the collection significantly for spring/summer 2018 to include lighter-weight options in vintage linen and gabardine.

由于该系列反响较好，Cardelli与Cavaliere对其进行了进一步开发，推出了2018春夏系列，采用优质亚麻与华达呢，提供更加轻便的选择。

Two shorter styles — a broad-collared safari jacket and a riding blazer called the Karen — nod to Meryl Streep’s costumes in Sydney Pollack’s “Out of Africa” (“We’re obsessed with that movie,” Cardelli says).

他们推出了两款短款设计，向Sydney Pollack指导的电影《走出非洲》中Meryl Streep的服装致敬（“我们特别喜欢那部电影，”Cardelli说道）。这两款衣服分别为：阔领旅行夹克与名为Karen的骑行上衣。

Eventually, the pair hope to expand to trousers and skirts, but they’re not in a rush. “It really depends on Gerardo,”— who Cardelli calls the “genius” behind Giuliva — “and when he finds the perfect fit.”

这对夫妇希望日后能够进军裤子、衬衫领域，但是这只是他们的长远目标，现在并不着急。“这主要看Gerardo。等他找到完美的设计的时候，就可以了。”Cardelli认为Gerardo是Giuliva背后的“天才”。

For now, handmade leather belts lend the collection versatility: Most of the poplin or twill-lined coats can be belted and worn comfortably as dresses.

目前，手工制成的皮质腰带令该系列的功能变得更加丰富：大多数府绸或斜纹布料制成的衣服都可以系腰带，变成裙子，穿起来很舒服。

Cardelli insists that the Heritage Collection “is absolutely not fashion.” She and Cavaliere (whose uncle was a master tailor in Salerno) share a reverence for traditional tailoring, and their innovations are subtle: an extra-high cut at the back of a trench; delicate mother-of-pearl buttons on a broad-shouldered overcoat. “We’re not inventing anything,” she says. “We’re just reinterpreting what we think is timeless.”

Cardelli坚称Heritage Collection“绝对不是时装。”她与Cavaliere（他叔叔是意大利Salerno市一位裁缝大师）都非常崇拜传统剪裁，而他们的创新也非常精妙：trench风衣后侧的剪裁特别高，阔肩外套上缝着精致的珍珠母纽扣。“我们不是在创造任何东西，”她说道。“我们只是在重新阐释那些我们认为是永恒的物品。”